Insider Journeys: Zenagi Expedition Hotel, Kiso Valley

Property Overview

Surrounded by the forests of Japan's Kiso Valley, just outside Tsumago on the Nakasendo Trail, Zenagi is a private luxury villa available exclusively to one group at a time (up to six adults). Originally built in the 1600s by a notable family in Edo-period Japan, the restored Japanese kominka farm-house has retained a number of significant artefacts and authentic design elements like washi paper walls. The property features a spacious living area, three large bedrooms each with plush futon platform beds and large ensuite, and spacious outdoor terraces. There is also a private dining pavilion where dinner is served, which has a large wooden deck, perfect for enjoying a sunset drink while taking in the rural valley view below.

While staying at Zenagi, you have full use of the property and there is an onsite team to ensure you have everything you need. The team includes your private chef, a sommelier, a host and specialist outdoor guides; options include mountain meditation walks, river canyoning and other adventures in the Kiso Valley.

The Zenagi team will ensure you are well-looked after during your stay, with dinner and breakfast included in your stay and showcasing native ingredients expertly prepared by the award-winning in-house chef. Your personal sommelier is on-hand through the day to recommend the perfect wine to pair with your meal or to offer a taste of a rare Sake.

What we loved

Staying at Zenagi is an experience of the Kiso Valley, like visiting the most exceptional local art and history museum. The restored buildings feature a number of significant artefacts. The interior furnishings strike a balance between modern comforts - the exceptional cedar tubs and open shower rooms are a hit - and the traditional - with the walls covered in washi paper and furniture handmade by local craftsmen. I spent hours walking around the villa rooms looking at all the fine details. When it was time to dine, I learnt of the Japanese antiques and locally-crafted plates and dishes too. I learnt so much from the Zenagi team too - about centuries' old family history of the farmhouse; about the local mountain vegetables and medicinal herbs found in the valley; about what it was like to live in a rural village in the days of the Samurai.

There is no comparison between staying in a typical hotel and staying at a place like Zenagi. It is authentic and personalised and a true reflection of the region. I loved it all.

Another thing I loved was the dining. With a private chef, it was possible to enjoy exceptional Japanese dining, but personalise some elements to Western tastes. After a few weeks travelling Japan dining Kaiseki style but with little flexibility, it was lovely to have the option to choose some courses. The breakfast at Zenagi was also perhaps my favourite from my time in Japan. There were the traditional elements I'd come to enjoy, but also a selection of freshly made breads and locally sourced honey and fruit jams. The perfect balanced start to the day before a day exploring the Kiso Valley.

What surprised us?

One of my favourite moments was arriving at Zenagi and being taken on a tour of the three guest suites and being asked to choose which one I'd prefer to stay in. With each suite featuring an exceptional hand-crafted tub made from local wood, I felt like a kid in a candy-shop. It was a hard decision but I ended up going with the huge circular tub that looked onto the gardens.

Another thing that surprised me at Zenagi was that dinner was in a private dining pavilion, which made it feel like I was going to a restaurant each evening. The staff would open the 'restaurant' at the agreed dining timing time and welcome me in, and I'd be looked after by a host throughout the evening in addition tot he chef and sommelier. It was the most attentive dinner service I've experienced, like my very own private restaurant.

Recommended experiences

The grounds of Zenagi are picturesque, and it is well worth a morning stroll around the rural village before breakfast to see this peaceful slice of Japan in the early light. Slowing down is part of the experience here, so be sure to carve out time in your day for a relaxing soak in one of the incredible baths, and to sit on the terrace to take in the view.

Active experience options while staying at Zenagi include oudoor adventures such as floating down a Kiso Valley river with an Olympic kayaking champion, climbing to a mountain-top for a zen experience with a Zen Master, meet local craftsman or participate in a green tea ceremony. If you like the sound of these options, consider adding some extra nights at Zenagi during your Nakasendo Walking Journey so you can fit in these experiences in addition to your days walking the trail.

What’s Nearby?

Located close to Tsumago, Magome and Nagiso on the Nakasendo Trail, Zenagi is the perfect base for a Nakasendo Journey through the Kiso Valley. The best sections of the Nakasendo to walk while at Zenagi include:

• Magome to Tsumago
• Nagiso to Nojiri, finishing in the Atera Valley for a swim*
• Yabuhara to Narai, which includes the Torii Pass

*For a special Walk into Luxury moment, we include some pop-up refreshments by the azure water of the Atera River after your longest walk day before returning to Zenagi for another night of fine dining.