Insider Journeys: Byaku Narai

Property Overview

Byaku Narai is a unique 'destination hotel' in the well-preserved post-town of Narai-juku. Combining traditional Japanese elegance and modern comforts, Byaku Narai is spans four separate beautifully restored Edo-era heritage buildings with 16 individually designed guest rooms. The property features a public Onsen Bathhouse as well as private Onsen tubs in most rooms, which open to the outside or are tucked in your own private garden. Byaku Narai also has an onsite restaurant, which is housed within a historic Sake bar, as well as a small bar and onsite gallery. The guest rooms are each unique, but all feature authentic Japanese design elements and a supremely comfortable platform bed.

Lanterns light the garden trails that weave around the individual buildings and villas, and some are located along the pedestrian-only main street of Narai-juku.

What we loved

There is a lot to love about Byaku Narai, but let's start with the dining. A stay at Byaku Narai includes breakfast in the restaurant, and we include dinner in our Nakasendo Journeys. The hotel restaurant offers exceptional kaiseki dining, showcasing the finest seasonal ingredients sourced from the Kiso Valley. There is the option to dine in the main restaurant area at a traditional table, or at the bar counter where you can see the chefs in action. Either way, the dimly-lit atmosphere of the old Sake brewery adds a special element to dinner here.

Another thing we loved is the baths and gardens. The water is sourced from natural hot spring and pre-filled ready for your arrival. Soaking in a warm tub with healing thermal water after a hike, looking out at the mountain vistas and lush gardens was the nicest way to spend the afternoon here.

What surprised us?

The staff at Byaku Narai are incredibly friendly, and the atmosphere is one of Japanese hospitality at its best. They were possibly the nicest front of house team we met in Japan, and for a country that is known for its politeness and warm hospitality, this was impressive.

The welcoming atmosphere at Narai extended to the inclusions, with little touches like guest lounges with beer and juices you could help yourself to, and sweets in the room to welcome us.

One thing that surprised us at such an authentic Japanese hotel is the rooms featured a small Nespresso machine and great quality coffee with milk - a rarity in Japan. This reflects the balance Byaku has struck between the preserving the cultural heritage and authentic design, while injecting the hotel with modern comforts of a boutique design hotel. They've done it so well here.

Recommended experiences

Take a wander down the main street of Narai in the afternoon and you will discover some great little cafes and gift shops. The street is so picture-perfect, allow some time to capture that classic photo, and take it all in. If you have the energy, you can walk from Narai to the next post-town - Hirasawa - which is only 1.5km down the road. It is an easy walk and in Hirasawa you will find traditional laquer-ware shops selling the most exquisite chopsticks and dishes. Beware that some are open at irregular hours, so ask Byaku to phone ahead for you to ensure your preferred shop will be open.

What’s Nearby?

Most visitors to Narai visit by train and then leave without discovering the unique sites on the Nakasendo Trail surrounding the town. On our Nakasendo Journeys, you will walk with a local guide from Yabuhara - another post-town - to Narai, which crosses the historic Torii Pass. The views from the pass are scenic, but the shrines and fascinating history of the battle that occurred here were a highlight of our time on the Nakasendo.